Article Links Guadalajara, Mexico
Retirement Live in Lake Chapala & Ajijic
Retire in San Miguel de
Allende
Retire to Sayulita, Mexico
Joel’s AARP Review & Comments
Page 2: (Lake Chapala)
La Vida Cheapo, AARP, Continued….
By Barry Golson,
March-April 2004
AARP Magazine
LAKESIDE
We pack our bags and taxi south to Lake
Chapala, a $30 ride. The view as we approach is
breathtaking—a 50-mile-long lake, no urban haze, all sun
and hills and marshes. Idyllic, but looks can be
deceiving: the lake is polluted by industrial waste upriver. Where once there
was fishing and water sports, the lake is now a view,
nothing more. There have been ongoing efforts to clean it
up, including a hands-around-the-lake protest several
years ago, but significant results seem a long way
off.
The retirement zone comprises two communities along the
lake, a few miles apart: the funky, more Mexican village of
Chapala, where gringos and locals live mostly side by side, and
Ajijic (pronounced ah-hee-heek), where many Americans and
Canadians live apart from the natives in pricey gated
communities. Ajijic straddles a highway strip whose shop signs
are half in English, half in Spanish, but the town does have
its Mexican charms: a few blocks in from the main highway, for
instance, you'll find small plazas, quaint churches, and solemn
donkeys pulling carts.
Our guide at Lakeside is
Ruth Ross-Merrimer, 69, an irrepressible dame with a sardonic
wit. A Californian who worked in documentaries, Ross-Merrimer
has lived here for 20 years and has reported on the social
scene for several local English-language publications. She has
also self-published a novel called Champagne and Tortillas,
which pokes satirical fun at a retirement community not unlike
Lakeside.
She can be tart about the goings-on around
the lake, but also boasts about the amateur theater, the
October concerts, and the opera season, as well as the
charity work done by the gringo population, which includes
a large number of Canadians. "Some people do live in gated
bubbles," she says at the lively Ajijic Grill, where we
meet. "But most had enough of an adventurous spirit to
move to Mexico in the first place. They were doers, and
they pour a lot of that energy into local charities. It's
either that or Margarita City."
Whether you move to Guadalajara, Lakeside, or elsewhere in
Mexico, Ross-Merrimer advises, be prepared for culture shock.
"The two cultures have opposing attitudes toward wealth, death,
time, and taxes," she says. "Americans tend to flaunt their
wealth. Mexicans shield it, sometimes behind walls with spiked
glass. Americans consider death the end of life; Mexicans
consider it a part of life. Americans obsess about time;
Mexicans are casual about it—and that's understating it, honey.
Americans pay their taxes without protest; Mexicans put them
off or ignore them."
Thia and I meet a wide range of retirees over the next
several days. We see gorgeous homes, landscaped with all of the
dazzling garden foliage the climate encourages ("Stick a
clothespin in the ground here, and it'll grow," says
Ross-Merrimer). And while we didn't collect data in a formal
way, we were struck by how consistently retirees spoke of the
reasonable cost of living in Lakeside compared with where
they'd lived before. Here are a few of the comments we
recorded. On housing: "A house that costs $600,000 in Phoenix
might cost $300,000 here." On taxes: "Real estate taxes in a
New York suburb can run $12,000 a year for a house this size;
here they're $67." On utilities: "Gas and electricity are $600
a month in Chicago; here it's $100." (Electricity in Mexico is
expensive, but at Lakeside, there's little need for air
conditioning.) And finally, on amenities: "A maid in New
Jersey, if you can afford one, can be $100 a day. Here, it's $5
to $10 a day."
In Lakeside, as in other Mexican retirement
havens, you can live as cheaply or as extravagantly as
you've a mind to. Karen Blue, who at 52 "chucked corporate
life" in San Francisco's Bay Area to settle in Ajijic in
1996, runs seminars for newcomers to the area with her
business partner, Judy King, 59, who unlike Karen needs to
work for a living. They also host a helpful subscription
website for people thinking of moving to the Chapala
area.
Blue and King join us for lunch to talk about life in
Lakeside for those without fat pensions or golden parachutes.
Our first question: "Can Americans live comfortably here on
their Social Security checks?" The answer is an unqualified
yes.
"Truth is," says Blue, "there are lots of respectable homes
you can rent for about $600, and then you add maybe $100 for a
gardener and maid—which makes for a very competitive housing
package, no matter what your financial circumstances." Adds
King: "I actually know a fair number of people who do it on
less than that. They've looked around, gotten a decent little
place for $350. They may not go out to eat much, they eat more
tacos than steak, but they have a very nice life here. So, yes,
you can live here on your Social Security check."
On our last day in Ajijic, we gather at a lush garden home
with several transplanted residents, including retiree John
Bragg, 69, and his wife, Mary, 57, Californians who moved to
Mexico 11 years ago. I mention to John that we are planning to
visit legendarily arty San Miguel de Allende next. "Oh, I'd
never live in San Miguel," says Bragg, engaging in the
ever-popular sport of bashing other retirement havens. "The
town is filled with Texans. You can't even go to a bar and hear
any Spanish. Some blond lady's gonna come up to you and say,
'Y'all must be new in town. Wouldn't you lahk to go on a house
tour?'"
As it happens, one of the first people we'll meet in San
Miguel is a lady who runs—you guessed it—house tours.
Lakeside scorecard
• Looks 7 (for the vista);
• Charm 4 (some nice plazitas);
• Culture 5 (October concerts and ballet);
• Shopping 2 (but Guadalajara, 9, is not far);
• Medical facilities 2 (ditto);
• Other Americans 9 (lots of them);
• Wow factor—all sorts of personal services, from tai chi
classes to assisted living facilities.
• Thia's review: "No need to worry about speaking Spanish here,
but kind of suburban."
• Barry's review: "Nice folks, but not where I'd settle. Can't
get over that pretty lake no one swims in."
Next page: San Miguel de Allende
Retirement,
(AARP) American Association of Retired Persons Magazine, "La
Vida Cheapo"
Article Links
Page 1: Guadalajara, Mexico
Retirement
Page 2: Live in Lake Chapala & Ajijic
Page 3: Retire in San Miguel de
Allende Page 4: Retire to
Sayulita, Mexico's Pacific Coast
Page 5: Joel’s AARP Review & Comments
Page 2 of 5
Source:
http://www.aarpmagazine.org/travel/Articles/a2004-01-21-mag-mexico.html
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Casa Preciosa Comments:
Also..
Thinking about visiting Lake Chapala? Retirement in Mexico has opened a
whole world of possibilities to a lot of Americans, Canadians
and Europeans.
A great way to stay during your holiday is a
Vacation home rental in Ajijic.
Casa Preciosa is such a Vacation rental home
rental located in the best part of the village of Ajijic
Jalisco Mexico.
Isn't it about time that you wrote a new
chapter in your life and take a look at Lake Chapala, Mexico for
retirement.
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